Prague Blog
Prague. The city of a hundred spires. Old Town Square. The Charles Bridge. Prague Castle.
The capital of Czech Republic. Country 15 for me, but I’m trying to stop counting counties and just focus on experiences… kinda. Mindfully being a traveler, not a tourist. Spending my days street walking, people watching, and day drinking. Finding cheap beer and exploring a city’s vibrant food scene.
The problem is that the heart of Prague all felt manufactured to make you feel like a tourist. Basically, adult Disney vibes. Unique, historical architecture engulfed in tourist traps, overpriced absinthe, and throngs of people taking countless pictures of the same clock. Name brand shops lining the boulevards, myriad places to buy meaningless trinkets to bring home. But through the curated capitalistic canopy, there were culinary gems.
To be fair, I didn’t leave Praha 1, the historic city center with Old Town, Lesser Town, and some of New Town, so I didn’t give myself much of a chance to get lost in anything other than old cobblestone streets and the bottom of a glass. I’m glad I went. I had a blast. I ate and drank well. I saw the sights. I properly crossed it off the list.
Hany Bany
It didn’t take me much time wandering the streets of Prague before I found my kind of joint. Hany Bany, just a few blocks off Old Town Square toward the Vltava River, featured happy hour 2-for-1 giant mugs of Staropramen (a Czech pilsner) and an order of authentic beef goulash with potato cakes. There were locals hanging out inside and at the sidewalk tables, enjoying a sunny afternoon, and I felt like I was experiencing some authentic Prague, sarcastic waiter and all. Fortunately, he made sure that I ordered the correct beer for happy hour!
Teresa U Prince
Teresa U Prince overlooks the Old Town Square from the top of Hotel U Prince. While drop dead in the middle of the tourist zone and with tourist prices, it presented a nice escape from the hoards of astronomical clock-photographing tourists down below. I drank a Caipirinha and munched on some almonds and olives while soaking in the views.
Kampa Cafe
Things seemed to slow down a bit across the river and south of the castle. That’s where I found Kampa Cafe with their fantastic sidewalk seating, perfect for a tasty lunch. A lovely asparagus soup started off the meal, then I enjoyed a burrata toast and some Czech sausages. Throw in some coffee, wine, and beer, and the day began as a true vacation should.
Krcma
For some medieval tavern dungeon dining, I found Krcma just far enough off the Old Town Square to be a little hidden. Down a staircase into a basement, I arrived in a tavern with plenty of history on every brick and door. With a half liter of Pilsner Urquell and an order of pork roast with bread dumplings and red cabbage, I savored in the flavors that I had been traveling for.
Wine Bars
Prague is very much pitched as a beer city, and rightfully so as the beer is cheap and plentiful. However, Prague proved to be a great wine city as well. While most of the wine I found came from France, Italy, and Germany, Czechia does have some wine of its own and I made it a mission to drink some. I found some great wine bars to sip and savor, including Lot of Wine Prague, Wine Not Prague, Vinarna by Alma, Wine Bar Vinoteka U Mourenina, and Cin Cin Wine Bar.
Cocktail Bars
As if playing a game of HORSE and not wanting to be outdone by the beer or wine, the cocktail bars of Prague really pulled out some trick shots. The tour started at Green Devil’s Absinth Bar where I had a traditional pour trickled over a sugar cube. Alchemy Sanctum Bar had a 2-for-1 happy hour, so you aren’t seeing a reflection above. That’s two negronis and two Unicorn Blood cocktails highlighted by rum, coconut rum, lime, and lychee. At Bar 23 I took down a Cinco de Mayo margarita then followed that up with a tequila sunrise and cuba libre. At the AnonymouS Shrink’s Office, a speakeasy underneath a different bar, they used ink plots to pick your cocktail, meanwhile at the flagship AnonymouS Bar, the drinks had other secrets.
Other Tastes
Prague definitely delivered on the food and drink. I’m glad I got to some side roads and other parts of Praha 1 to explore the scene a little bit. The farther I walked from Old Town Square, the more it seemed like I found the real Prague. From coffee and kolaches to beef tartare and of course more beer, the city absolutely delivered. The duck and dumplings were a highlight, and I recommend eating as many dishes like that that you can in Prague! If you want a few restaurant recommendations for your trip, just let me know!
A Few Sights
Finally, a few touristy pictures, just because. And yes, that’s a shot of the Astronomical Clock as I walked by! I had to snap one just to prove I was there. Prague really had a lot of charm. From the river cruise views of the castle to the modern architecture of the Dancing House to the historic bridges and daily walks under the Powder Gate, I enjoyed my three day adventure!
